The last camas flowers
have fallen, their green leaves withered, and the grass around them parched
golden under the long day’s sun. All around the Salish Sea the plants of thin soiled
sites are preparing for the dry summer by setting seed and retreating to subterranean
perennial parts. Visiting one such “bald” on an island at the mouth of the
Skagit River, I was surprised by a final flush of color. Amongst camas seed
pods, dry moss, and crisp licorice fern fronds were the vital tones of orchid,
orobanche, onion, and brodiaea.
California Broomrape (Orobanche californica) |
Hooker's Onion (Allium acuminatum) |
White Brodiaea (Triteleia hyacinthina) |
Edible roots grace both onions
and brodiaeas, but I was especially keen to have my first taste of brodiaea. Both
Harvest Brodiaea (Brodiaea coronaria)
and White Brodiaea (Triteleia hyacinthina
were present but I failed to bring my digging stick, and the White Brodiaea
were too deeply rooted to extricate with my fingernails, so this account is
limited to the more shallow rooted and easy to, Harvest Brodiaea.
Harvest Brodiaea (Brodiaea coronaria) |
Northern range of Harvest Brodiaea (CPNWH map) |
Harvest Brodiaea ranges
from southern Vancouver Island to Southern California and has the largest range
of the 19 species in its genus (all in Western North America). The Comox valley on Vancouver Island is the
northern extent of its range and it is commonly found in prairies and thin soiled
rocky balds throughout the islands and mainland region surrounding the Salish
Sea. Further from the coast Harvest Brodiaea is less common, but a few
populations are found in the Thompson and Fraser River valleys in British
Columbia, the rocky slopes of the upper Skagit (Ross Lake) and Thurston County outwash prairies in
Washington; the Lower Columbia and Willamette valleys in Oregon host
sporadic populations as well. From the Siskiyous southward, Harvest Brodiaea
once again becomes more common and can be found in both wet and dry sites
including yellow pine forests, riparian wetlands, and grasslands.
At the time of first
European contact, the Coast Salish collected Harvest Brodiaea. Captain George
Vancouver’s naturalist Archibald Menzies wrote in his May 28, 1792 journal “On
the Point near the Ship [Restoration Point, Puget Sound] where…a few families
of Indians live in very Mean Huts or Sheds formed of slender Rafters &
covered with Mats. Several of the women were digging on the Point which excited
my curiosity to know what they were digging for & found it to be a little
bulbous root of the liliaceous plant which on searching about for the flower of
it I discovered to be a new Genus of the
Triandia monogyna [i.e. Brodiaea].
This root with the young shoots of Raspberries & a species of Barnacles
formed at this time the chief part of their wretched subsistence (in Pojar and
Mackinnon 1994)." However, there is almost no mention of the traditional food
value of Harvest Brodiaea among later ethnobotanical studies of the Coast
Salish (Turner and Bell 1971) or Indigenous peoples in British Columbia or Washington. Knowledge of other brodiaea species ranges from vague
recollections of use among the Thompson (Turner et al. 1990) and Okanagan
(Turner et al. 1980) to precise knowledge and active harvest among some Sahaptin
people (Hunn 1990).
A lineup of Harvest Brodiaea corms |
Further south, the
ethnobotanical knowledge of Harvest Brodiaea is more vivid. In Oregon, several Athabaskan speaking peoples know the plant as 'small camas' due to the similarity in appearance and use (Ethnobotany of Western Oregon). In California, the corms are
traditionally eaten by the Atsugewi, Miwok, Pomo, Kashaya,
Yurok, Yana, and other Native American groups (Moerman). Research by
ethnobotanist Kat Anderson (2005) has shown that traditional techniques of
harvesting and tending patches of brodiaea and onions actually increases their
abundance. By all accounts, the roots of Harvest Brodiaea are dug in the late spring while flowering and boiled or baked in earth ovens before being eaten.
I boiled a few corms for
10 minutes in unsalted water to give myself an unadulterated taste of the
little morsels. They quickly softened and I found their texture and flavor very similar
to a boiled potato. The skins were tough and I spit them out. All the remaining
roots went into the garden to multiply for future meals.
The genus Brodiaea honors Scottish Botanist James
Brodie (1744-1824) and the species epithet coronaria
means “used for garlands” in Latin. I can't think of a nicer garnish for my next meal of brodiaea.
References
Anderson, M. Kat 2005. "Tending the Wild, Native
American Knowledge and the Management of California's Natural Resources."
University of California Press, Berkley CA.
Biota of North American Program (BONAP)- North American
Plant Atlas- Brodiaea
Calflora- Brodiaea
coronaria
Consortium of Pacific Northwest Herbaria- Brodiaea
coronaria
Ethnobotany of Western Oregon- Harvest Lily (Brodiaea coronaria)
Hoover, Robert F. 1939. “A
Revision of the Genus Brodiaea.” American Midland Naturalist Vol. 22, No.
3.
Hunn, Eugene 1990. "Nch'i-Wana 'The Big River',
Mid-Columbia Indians and Their Land." University of Washington Press,
Seattle WA.
Native American Ethnobotany- Brodiaea coronaria
Oregon Flora Project- Brodiaea coronaria
Pojar and MacKinnon 1994. “Plants of the Pacific Northwest
Coast, Washington, Oregon, British Columbia, & Alaska”. Lone Pine,
Vancouver BC.
Turner, Nancy J. and Marcus Bell 1971. "The Ethnobotany
of the Coast Salish." Economic Botany.
Turner et al. 1990. "Thompson Ethnobotany, Knowledge
and Usage of Plants by the Thompson Indians of British Columbia." Royal
British Columbia Museum Memoir No. 3.
Turner, Nancy J., Randy Bouchard, and Dorothy I. D. Kennedy.
1980. "Ethnobotany of the Okanagan-Colville Indians of British Columbia
and Washington." British Columbia Provincial Museum Occasional Papers
Series No. 21.
WTU Herbarium- Brodiaea
coronaria